| Special Notices |
This species does best in a terrestrial enclosure with a secure hide, moderate substrate depth, and enough structure to web around the entrance of its retreat. Keep the substrate slightly moist in one area with good ventilation, but avoid a wet or stagnant setup. This is a less commonly offered species, so I recommend keeping care simple, stable, and conservative.
For care, setup, feeding, and show-and-tell videos, check out my YouTube channel to see how I keep and feed my tarantulas:
Watch Urban Tarantulas on YouTube
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| Care Details |
| 🌡️ Temperature |
72–78°F works well for this species. It can be kept a touch cooler than many tropical tarantulas, and warmer temperatures usually mean faster growth because they molt more often. |
| 💧 Humidity |
Keep around 60–70% with one slightly moist area and good airflow. Do not keep it swampy or bone-dry. Water dishes are optional; I usually skip them except for larger species. |
| 🏠 Housing |
| Babies |
1–4 oz deli cup with needle ventilation. Add lightly packed substrate, a tiny starter hide, and a little moss or leaf litter for webbing. FREE container at checkout IF requested; not included otherwise. |
| Juveniles |
Use a terrestrial enclosure around 2–3x body size with moderate substrate depth, a cork hide, and webbing anchors. Keep one side slightly moist and the rest well ventilated. |
| Adults |
Adults do well in a secure terrestrial setup with floor space, a snug hide, and a moisture gradient. Give them enough substrate to dig and enough décor to build a comfortable webbed retreat. |
| General Diet |
🍽️ Crickets + roaches are my staples, including Dubia, Red Runner, and Lobster roaches. Babies take baby crickets or baby roaches. If prey is too big, pre-kill by crushing the head, leave it in the enclosure, then remove leftovers or bolus after feeding.
For super large specimens, a pinky/hopper mouse or feeder lizard can be offered very sparingly as an occasional treat, but excess calcium can cause constipation and pooping issues. We never use pinhead crickets because they do not provide enough protein. |
| In-depth Facts |
| 🕷️ Latin name / Scientific name |
Ewok pruriens |
| 📛 Common name(s) |
Peruvian Green Velvet Tarantula |
| 🌡️ Temperature |
72–78°F |
| 💧 Humidity |
60–70% with slightly moist areas and good ventilation |
| 📍 Locale |
Peru |
| 🏷️ Category |
Terrestrial, opportunistic burrower, moderate webbing around retreats |
| 📏 Size |
Females around 4–5 inches DLS; males usually smaller and leggier |
| 🪶 Urticating hairs |
Yes, but hardly kick. |
| ⏳ Growth rate |
Slow to moderate, with steady growth when kept stable and fed consistently |
| 🧭 Life span |
Females around 10–15 years; males around 3–5 years |
| 🍽️ Feeding |
Offer appropriately sized crickets or roaches. This species may be a little shy at times, so drop prey near the hide entrance and remove anything uneaten. |
| 🎯 Recommended levels |
A great choice for keepers who enjoy rarer South American terrestrial species, beautiful natural coloration, and tarantulas that reward patience with a clean, webbed display setup. |
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| Safety Disclaimer |
Safety Disclaimer: Tarantula bites are extremely rare, and there are no recorded human fatalities. Venom strength varies by species; Old World tarantulas are usually more potent than New World tarantulas, with Poecilotheria known for especially strong venom. Larger tarantulas may also deliver more venom.
If bitten, stay calm. Most symptoms fade within minutes to hours, though potent species may cause discomfort for up to a week. In 13 years, I’ve only been bitten once, and symptoms were gone after one week.
Handling is at your own risk. I’m not responsible for bites or injuries. Always prioritize your safety and the tarantula’s well-being. |
